I was looking at the temps on my RTX 3080 FE video card with HWinfo64 and noticed that even when lowering the power limit the memory temps were really high (GPU Memory Junction Temperature). They were reaching up to 108C and I read throttling kicks in at 110C.  I didn’t like the high temps and also didn’t like the noise of the card running when temps reach that high. I plan on trying the igorslab pad mod, but wanted to also see what I could achieve by just cooling the backplate without opening up the card. To do this I added an additional RTX 3080fe heatsink to the backplate.

Also my requirements are a little different then most miners.  I am just using this single 3080FE in my desktop. This is in my office so noise is also a concern. I am looking for a balance between sounds/heat and hashrate. With a priority on keeping the sound as low as possible. I also wanted to keep the heat down to hopefully get a long life out of the card. So I don’t mind suffering a lower hashrate for this. That is why I usually lower the power limit. But my goal here is to improve the cooling without adding to much noise, so I can raise the hashrate.

If you have ever touched the backplate of the RTX 3080FE when it is mining you will notice it get really hot. Currently for baseline I am mining Kawpow with stock mem/cpu settings and at a 70% power limit. The GPU Memory Junction temp seems to be stable around 100C jumping up to 102C sometimes. If I raise the power limit it seems to hit the 104C range or higher.

Ordering the heatsinks

So I started by ordering a couple different size aluminum heatsinks from Amazon. I ordered two smaller 100x40x22mm and a larger 100x69x36mm heatsink. The plan was to use the shorted ones in the front by the fan area and the larger heatsink in the back. (After starting this I decided I want to use the shorter ones for the back as well for clearance issues, so I ordered a couple more of those. But being impatient I continued anyways with what I had)

Cutting the heatsinks

This post is for entertainment only, I am not responsible if you try this and damage your card, property, or injure yourself. 

Once I had the heatsinks I did some quick measurements on the smaller ones and marked them with a sharpie for cutting. I mangled the first one as I did not clamp it down and it flew from my cutter.  The second one I clamped it down and used a Sawzall and it was a much better cut.  Then I filed the edges to remove any burs and loose shavings.

Here is my first mangled cut, what a mess. I was able to straighten it somewhat.

Here it is after straightening the best I could and then my second attempt on the second heatsink that I cut much better.

Mounting the heatsinks

Luckily I was able to take the end pieces and put a couple together and use them as well. I also decided to line up the fins to catch the air blowing from the front of the case to the back of the case. Here is me just lining them up to see how they will fit. I could have done a little better on the first piece, I may redo it in the future to make it look better.

Next I used some thermal adhesive heatsink tape to apply them. Basically its like a double-sided tape to hold them in place (You can see it in the above picture) .

For the back area of the RTX 3080fe I ended up just doing a rough cut on the large heatsink and mounting it while I wait for my two more shorter heatsinks to show up. Here it is installed now with the larger back heatsink.

Summary

As you can see its not pretty. The larger additional RTX 3080fe heatsink does not cover the whole back area. This will be resolved when my second batch of shorter heatsinks show up. The heatsinks are still doing there job, and the heat transfer is good as they are warm to the touch. They are also keeping the GPU memory junction cooler. Using the same settings as before I am now sitting at an average of around 98 with the temp bouncing between 96C-100C range. Mainly staying around 98C.

So far I feel this has been worth it. It seems to run cooler, and a little quieter. Also I want to mention while it seems like it dropped the temp 1-2C for the card at a 70% power limit, I bumped it up to 75% and it seems to be about where it was when I didn’t have a heatsink at 70%. I also tried mining ETH and had it at 80% and it does not seem like it is as effective. I think when running at a higher power limit the results are not as noticeable.

Of course this is a non technical guess as I did not take temperature of my room or any detailed logs. I will update this once I get the new shorter heatsinks and cover the rest of the back of the card. I am doing this in stages before opening the card and voiding the warranty by adding new thermal pads.

Next steps.

I will add the new heatsinks to cover the back of the card and replace the taller unit that did not have the full coverage. I also ordered some Noctua fans to mount underneath the card and blow air up into the card from the bottom. Thinking these silent fans may assist with cooling and help lower the heat and 3080FE fan speed to make it even quieter. I also plan on getting some thermal pads and doing the internal thermal pad mod. I will update the post as I do these.

[UPDATE] NOCTUA Fan add

I ordered a PCI fan bracket and added three Noctua fans. I will not go into the details, but here is a picture of it. Basically I mounted it under the RTX3080FE and the cooling was negligible. Maybe it dropped a degree at most for the mem junction. It may also have slightly helped reduce the fan speed on the card. But it was not anything dramatic and I would not waste the money to do it again. I do love Noctua fans, but for this situation it did not help me much.

The fans I used in the pci cooler above were Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 92mm.

[UPDATE 2 ]THE BIG FIX

Ok, now that I tried what I could without opening the card, my thermal pads finally showed up and I could try them. Spoiler alert. This was the big fix. I added the new Thermalright 12.8 W/mk pads to the front and rear of the card replacing the old ones and adding to a few new spot. I also did a repaste of the GPU itself with Arctic MX-4 thermal compound. After a few issues with pad sizes and the GPU getting hot, I was able to get the results I wanted after the second try. I still have the 3080FE Heatsink I made on the card as I do think that helps dissipate the heat.

Basically now I am mining Eth and getting 97-100 Mh/s and able to get +1500 OC on my memory at 70% power limit. My temps are stable with the GPU averaging 51.7C, Mem junction Avg 84.9C and peaked at 90C. Plus my fan only needs to run at 51-53%!

I was pretty blown away by these results and am very happy. I will grab all my pictures from doing the pad mod and post a new article and link it here showing some of my stumbling blocks when doing this. But the main thing I am happy with was bringing down that memory junction temp so no thermal throttling. Keeping the card cooler should help longevity.

The post Add RTX 3080FE heatsink cooling appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

RTX 2060 KO ULTRA GAMING vs RTX 2060 KO GAMING

The EVGA RTX2060 KO comes in a couple different models.

The RTX 2060 KO GAMING ( 06G-P4-2066-KR) and the RTX 2060 KO ULTRA GAMING (06G-P4-2068-KR). I am reviewing the second model the “ULTRA GAMING” .  The difference between them seems to be that for the extra 20 dollars you get a 1755Mhz Boost clock on the Ultra Gaming as opposed to the 1680 MHz Boost clock on the slightly cheaper Gaming Model. Both cards suggest a 500 watt power supply and state they draw 160 Watts. Both cards have a metal backplate. One nice feature was at the time the card came with a free copy of the game Death Stranding which I gave to my son. The price I paid for the card was 329.99

RTX2060KO Hashrate

I benchmarked the RTX 2060 KO Ultra Gaming using 80% power, +50 Core clock and +300 on memory. This was using the MSI afterburner software. This is the same settings I used on the GTX 1060 which I added for a side by side comparison.

 Power

While the RTX2060KO is listed as needing a slightly larger power supply (500Watt) vs the  GTX1060 I tested with which listed the needed power supply as 400W. Both needed the 8 pin supplementary power connector. I will hook up my wattmeter and update this with the power used by each card under load. I did try running the RTX2060KO with full power on my dell which has a 480Watt power supply and it did crash is. So they are correct when stating at least 500Watt or higher if you get the RTX2060KO.

SUMMARY

As you can see in the table above. The RTX2060 KO Ultra Gaming is a dramatic improvement over the older GTX1060. So far there is a lot I love about this card. Its a win for me with the price (329.00). It also came with a decent free game which at the time of purchase was 59.99 on steam. The card feels solid and I have had no issues with it so far.  Plus I do like EVGAs warranty and customer service which I have used in the past.

The downsides. What I would change on this card is the heatsink and fans. They just seem a little small for the card as I do hear some Fan noise when ramped up during mining. Its not horrible or anything, just not as quiet as the GTX1060 (By a noticeable amount). For most miners i do not think this would be an issue. For most gamers I doubt it would bother them if it ramped up a little during a game. But if you want a super silent card for a HTPC i would look at a different solution. Also if your case does not have adequate venting you may want a different card as the fans will probably stay ramped up more to keep it cool.

As a side note, After doing the testing I noticed the RTX2060KO Hashrate is more in line with my GTX 1070ti I am using when running the KawPow Algorithm. I will do a full benchmark on my GTX1070TI and add it to the table soon as well in this post, or just do a RTX2060KO vs GTX1070ti post. I think that might be a better comparison of what you are getting for this price range.

If you want some specific information on mining Kawpow with a GTX1060 you can see this post here. And here is the link to the EVGA website for full specs for the RTX2060KO Ultra Gaming I reviewed in this post.

The post EVGA RTX2060KO Hashrate appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

I just did some tests mining Ravencoin with a GTX 1060 mining the new Kawpow algorithm. I wanted to share my GTX1060 hashrate mining Kawpow in case anyone else wanted to give it a try, along with the amount of Ravencoin mined in that time.

Ravencoin recently switched to a new algorithm called KawPow which is a GPU friendly. Since I do have a PC that runs 24/7 as it is used as a HD DVR (BlueIris software) along with being a Bitcoin and Ravencoin full node. I thought I might as well try mining Ravencoin with the GTX1060 mining KawPow.

Hardware

For reference this PC is a little old, but suits the purpose of running my HD DVR and full nodes just fine. Here are the specs in case you were wondering.

• CPU – Intel i5 4570
• Ram – 8Gb
• HD – 500G ssd, and 2 Tb mechanical to record the videos.
• Video card MSI GTX 1060 6GB Armor

For mining you don’t need much CPU power, just a decent video card. The GTX 1060 was pretty much not being used in the system as Blue Iris mainly uses the CPU for recording the incoming video streams.

SOFTWARE

For the mining software I chose to use the KAWPOW miner as it is open source and for Nvidia cards. ( But as a precaution do not have a wallet with lots of funds on the PC just in case I run anything malicious). I got the Kawpow miner form the GitHub location here . KawPow has a version for both Linux and Windows. I was using the version for Windows.

• Kawpowminer version 1.2.3

For the mining pool I decided to use Minermore.com as I like there layout and have used them before.

RESULTS

Here are the results from 2 separate 24 hour test runs showing how much Ravencoin I can mine with a GTX1060. For the first run I was just using standard settings, then for the second run I did lower my power settings to 89% and adjusted the core clock +38 using the MSI afterburner software. But I think the pool was just luckier for the second run as well.

(Single GTX1060 mining KawPow)

Time	        RVN Mined	BTC Value *	  USD Value *
24 Hours	19.43277627	0.00004489 BTC	  $0.42 
24 Hours	22.27659249	0.00004923 BTC	  $0.46

Here are the GTX1060 hashrates mining KawPow from both 24 hour tests.

5 Min	        1 Hour	        6 hour	        12 Hour	        24 Hour
9.9 Mh/s	8.58 Mh/s	9.58 Mh/s	9.53 Mh/s	9.22 Mh/s
9.92 Mh/s	8.82 Mh/s	9.8 Mh/s	9.56 Mh/s	9.33 Mh/s

SUMMARY

With the new KawPow algorithm change, it seems that Ravencoin is much more profitable to mine again. Since I leave this PC running 24/7.  I think I might just use it to mine all the time as well. Even though the hashrate from an older single NVIDIA GTX1060 card is not that much. I may just try it as solo mining and see if I can win a block reward even if the chance is low. Or just leave it mining in a shared pool and help offset some power costs. ~12 dollars a month for a single GTX1060 doesn’t seem to bad.

I will go ahead and get some power readings soon and post that as well. Just to see what the difference is between leaving the PC on without mining Ravencoin, compared to actually mining Ravencoin.

If your interested in more Ravencoin  posts, here is one I did on making a Ravencoin price clock on a Raspberry Pi POST.

The post GTX1060 hashrate mining Kawpow appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

Here is the How and Why you might want to add a PIN to your Windows 10 PC.

Why add a PIN (Personal Identification Number)?

While a PIN does seem like just another type of password, one of the main differences is that the PIN is tied to the specific device you are trying to log into. The PIN is useless to anyone unless they have access to your hardware you set the PIN on. If you use an account password, that password can be used by someone to sign into your account from anywhere if it is compromised.  My understanding is that a PIN is also local to the device, while a password is transmitted to the far end server for verification.

Another neat feature when using a PIN on Windows 10 is that after 4 failed tries it will make you enter a string of characters to prove you are not a bot trying to hack in. When I did this it made me enter A1B2C3 and after another failed attempt it made me reboot Windows 10 before I could try again.

How to add a PIN to Windows 10

Step 1. Open Windows 10 settings by using the Keyboard shortcut ( Windows Key + i )

Step 2. Click on Accounts. (Highlighted below)

Step 3. Click on Sign-in options

Step 4. Click on the ADD button under PIN

Step 5.  Add your new PIN you want to use. Don’t forget to make note of it someplace so you remember it. I prefer a 6 digit PIN.

That’s it, I now have a PIN I can use on my Windows 10 PC to login! 

Conclusion

I like having a PIN on my PC’s as I feel it is more secure in that it only unlocks the single device. Best practice would be to have a separate PIN for each device. Also not to use birthdays and reuse PIN numbers like your debit card etc..

Another option some users may like is to just keep there PC as a local account. Do not have it sync and just keep a password.  I do like this option as well. There are lots of differnt ways to do things and you just have to decide what works best for you. Good luck everyone. 

Also for reference, here is a Microsoft article about why a PIN is better than a password HERE.

Side note:

Here is a post I just wrote on changing your DNS settings in Win 10. I really like Cloudflares new DNS 1.1.1.1 and its privacy features. You can check out that post here.

The post How to add a PIN to Windows 10 appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

The main reason for changing my DNS is to use a more private DNS provider. While I am not really all that worried about who knows what sites I visit. I do like to keep things more private if there is an option available. So I decided to switch to  Cloudflare’s DNS which I saw being touted as the internets fastest, Privacy-first consumer DNS service. I put a link to the cloudflare blog below.

Why change my DNS servers?

When your device reaches out to resolve an internet name to an IP address, the DNS provider that resolves this knows the identity of the site you visit. I was currently using Google’s DNS on my PC. But decided on switching to Cloudflares 1.1.1.1 to try it out.  If you want to read the details of Cloudflares DNS 1.1.1.1 you can check out this post from the Cloudflare blog HERE It has some great information and detail. I liked that they mention they do not store client IP addresses or any information in their logs that identify end users. They also stated all logs collected by the public resolver will be deleted within 24 hours.

How to change the DNS servers.

Here are the steps on how to change your DNS servers in Windows 10. For this example I am just going to change it from the control panel.

Step 1.  Open Control Panel (Click the windows key, then start typing  “control panel” and the option should pop up) Then click on Control Panel to open it.

Step 2. Click on “Network and Internet”

Step 3.  Click on “Network and Sharing Center”

Step 4. Click on Change Adapter Settings. 

Step 5. Right click on the adapter you are using for Internet access. Then click on properties from the drop down menu.

Step 6.  Select Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) and click properties.

Step 7. Add your DNS addresses you would like to use in the boxes highlighted below. For me I am using cloudflares DNS 1.1.1.1 and 1.0.0.1

Step 8 Click the OK box.

Completed

Thats it, my DNS changes have been made.  I will update this post if I run into any issues and change back to google or my default ISP addresses.

Other DNS Providers and resolution speed comparison

Here are a few other DNS providers and their speed when I checked them from my current location.  (They were checked in Linux using the dig command and the query time is posted below next to each DNS provider (The lower the time the better)) Command example:  dig @1.1.1.1 myrandomtechblog.com  

Cloudflare 1.1.1.1/1.0.0.1   19ms

Google 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4    31ms

OpenDNS 208.67.222.222 / 208.67.220.220   45ms

Verisign 64.6.64.6 / 64.6.65.6    141ms

Frontier 74.40.74.40 / 74.40.74.41 (my ISP I am currently using)   9ms

In conclusion it is not a surprise that my ISP I was currently using was the fastest. But, I am still going to stick with Cloudflare for now as it was the second fastest.

Hope you found this helpful, thanks for stopping by the blog.

If you would like to see how to change your MTU size in windows, you can see this post HERE.

The post Change DNS in Win10 appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

Here is how to change your interface MTU size in Linux os. My example below is from an Ubuntu VM.

1. Open the Terminal program to get a command line prompt.
2.  Type the command ifconfig into terminal to see current interface info. You may see something like eth0 for the interface. But in my example from a VM below I am seeing enp0s3. ( You may be asking what is enp0s3? This is a part of a standard for Predictable Network Interface Names. (You can find more info on that here  if your interested or more detail at the bottom of this post. )
3. 
4.  To change the MTU size to 1518 in my example, I am going to use the command sudo ifconfig enp0s3 mtu 1518 , this will change the MTU size to 1518 on the specific interface I identify in the command (for me this is interface enp0s3).
5.  Here you can see the MTU size has now been changed to 1518.

Why is the interface called enp0s3 ?

Basically it breaks down to “en” Ethernet “p <bus> s <slot>” which is how my interface got named enp0s3.

You can find the full naming information in the comments section HERE. But here is short summary of it.

Changing MTU in Windows

If you would like to see how to change the MTU size in windows, you can see that in this post here.

The post How to change MTU in Linux appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

I just tried out mining x16Rv2 on Ravencoin testnet in advance of the fork that is scheduled  for Oct 1st to see my x16rv2 hashrate. My Rig is a mix of Nvidia GTX cards but thought I would share my hashrates in case anyone finds it handy. I did not run it very long, was mainly just making sure I was ready.

If you have not heard of x16Rv2, this is a new algorithm that Ravencoin will be switching to on Oct 1st. This was a response to seeing ASICs had become available for the x16r algorithm. The change is they added a new algorithm called Tiger in front of 3 existing algo’s.

There are a few miners that are being built to support his change and one of them is T-Rex Beta version 14.2 which you can find the links for on thier discord.

Here is a screen shot after a few minutes.

You can see I appear to be getting a little less then the normal 24 hour average we are used to seeing on x16R, but again I only ran it a short amount of time to see the x16rv2 hashrate.

x16rv2 hashrate compared to x16r

This is my normal 24 hour rates I see with x16R along with my quick sample of x16Rv2

The mining program I was using for testing was T-Rex Version 14.2 that supports x16Rv2 for Nvidia cards, but I see they just released T-Rex miner version 14.4. I will get that loaded and give it a try soon.  For testing I was using the Minermore.com raven testnet pool. You can see it hitting the tiger algo in the picture below.

Just for reference here is the string in my .bat file I used to run the miner on the testnet if you want to give it a try.

t-rex -r 0 -a x16rv2 -o stratum+tcp://rvnt.minermore.com:4505 -u yourtestnetaddress.worker -d 0,1,2,3,4,5 -p x

One other thing to keep in mind is there is you will need to update your wallet to be on the new chain. For the Ravencoin QT wallet you want to be on version 2.5.X or above.

If you want to see how to add a view only address to your QT wallet you can see this post here. I like to have a view only on my mining rig as I like to run the QT as a full node, but do not want access to my coins. but want to see the balance.

The post Ravencoin x16rv2 hashrate appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

Latest T-Rex x16r Hashrates

I thought I would just keep a continual log of the latest T-Rex x16R hashrates for mining Ravencoin. Since they update the Trex miner frequently I will just keep updating this post with the latest hashrates I am seeing.

The current version of T-Rex miner is Trex 0.12.1

One thing I want to mention is that the T-Rex miner now has an update feature built in and I no longer needed to manually go and download the newest version. In addition they also have a nice browser display like the picture above with some neat features such as graphing.

So you don’t have to scroll down, latest version is on top, and overclock settings below it.

24 hour average Hashrates – T-Rex 0.12.1 mining x16R ( Ravencoin )

Overclock settings.

For reference here is what i have my power settings at for the cards above. I lower the power settings to save on pawer as it does not make much difference to the hashrate. To change the power settings I use the Afterburner app. My miner is running on Windows 10.

• 1070ti = Power 70%, CPU +69, Mem +0
• 1060 6GB = Power 65%, CPU +69, Mem +0
• 1060 3GB = Power 65%, CPU +69, Mem +0
• 750ti = Power 100%, CPU +0, Mem +0

One thing I like about the newer T-Rex version is the web browser display and auto update feature. The update feature was super easy to use with no manual downloading from Git needed.

.bat file example

Here is an example of my .bat file used to run the program for reference. Currently running 6 cards as you can see by the -d option.  I am mining on the minermore.com pool.

t-rex -a x16r -o stratum+tcp://us.rvn.minermore.com:4501 -u [username].[worker] -d 0,1,2,3,4,5 -p x

I expect this post to grow as more versions of T-Rex miner come out. So I did not add the older versions hash-rates as I had them in previous posts. But I have seen improvements as they have been updating T-Rex miner.

In Conclusion

One thing I want to note is that I do not run a active crypto wallet or store private info on my mining rig that runs closed source software like this. This is due to not being 100% sure if they are safe from snooping. While I have no reason to suspect any of the mining programs I have used in the past have issues, I prefer the better safe then sorry approach. In other words you can never be to safe.

If you are interested in Ravencoin and want to make a view-only wallet you can check out this post I made here.

One of the things I like about Ravencoin is its an open source project, with no Premine or ICO.  Ravencoin also has some great dev’s working on the software. In addition it is based off of bitcoin which has a great track record. Its main use case will be for security tokens and will have assets, messaging and dividends built in. It is super easy to register a unique asset and make a token.  I wont go into too much detail here, but I think its worth checking out if your into crypto mining. They have a great community that is super helpful. If you need help you can just reach out on Twitter #ravencoin or on their Telegram channel.

The post Latest T-Rex x16r Hashrates appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

Getting the Mac address for your network interface card (NIC card) is really easy in windows 10.

1. Open a cmd window prompt. (You can do this by hitting the “windows” key then just type in cmd and hit enter.
2.  At the command prompt type in ipconfig /all
3.  Look at the output for your interface card. It will probably be called Ethernet Adaptor.
4.   I Highlighted my Mac address in yellow in the picture below for my Ethernet port. (Ignore the first adaptor as I have docker installed. You may also have some extra adaptors and will need to chose the one you are looking for.)

You can also save the output to a file by using the command ipconfig /all > filename.txt It will place the file in your current directory.

If you want to see all the options available for ipconfig, you can do the command ipconfig ?

Another way to find your Mac address Windows 10 is with the CLI command getmac

This command will list the MAC addresses for your Network adaptors.  Here is an example of the output.

If you are looking for a way to change your MTU size, you can see this post here.

If you need information on more commands. Here is a nice list of Microsoft windows commands LINK.

The post How to find your mac address windows 10 appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

I was recently looking for a way to back up my seed words for my Bitcoin and other crypto with something more permanent then paper. So I started looking into metal cold wallets. One of the ones I saw that I really like was the ColdTi Titanium Recovery seed backup wallet. The kit comes with two titanium plates and screws to hold them together along with some tamper proof labels.

Disclaimer: This post is for entertainment purposes only. I am not responsible if you damage your equipment or injure yourself. Also this site uses affiliate links. This means I may make a small amount of money at no cost to you if you buy something after clicking a link on this site.

Here are a few advantages I found for the ColdTi titanium wallet.

Titanium has a melting point of 3,034°F.  While a quick search of google told me the average house fire gets up to 1,100°F.

The second feature was the low price. (I saw some wallets that allow you to place individual letters into the wallet and seal them. But with the ColdTi being just a metal plate I stamp they were able to keep the price down. Since I was going to be looking for a few backups, this worked out better for me.)

Here is what I ordered to get started, including the ColdTi titanium plates and a stamping block and stamping kit.

• 3mm lowercase kit
• 2mm lowercase kit
• ColdTi titanium recovery seed wallet.
• Steel Stamping block.

(I already had a decent heavy hammer, and think most any hammer will work.) But  I do see they make stamping hammers like this.

Stamping the ColdTi titanium wallet

I started by ordering 3mm stamping kit and then realized that i might be better off using something smaller, so I also ordered the 2mm so I would be able to compare and use the best option.  I think the 3mm would work, but it would be a tight fit. I ended up using the 2mm. Here you can see the size difference.

Stamping was pretty easy. I used some painters tape to keep the words in a straight line, I just would touch the stamp to the plate and slide it down until I felt the bottom of the letter hit the tape. and also made some marks on the tape to help with the spacing.

Then I just gave it a single hard WHACK! It went pretty easy, the only issue being that my family didn’t like the noise as I was in the kitchen. So I ended up waiting until they were asleep. (lol, just kidding) It was pretty noisy, so ended up doing it in a different room.

So how does it look!

Here you can see i did the top btc letters with the 2mm stamp kit.  I did the lower btc with the 3mm kit. Both looked great and I dont think i would have any trouble reading them in the future. The stamping was clear and deep. The first hit I made was the upper b with the 2mm, and you can see that one was not as hard. I adjusted after that to put a little more power in my tap.

ColdTi titanium wallet summary

Unfortunatly i am not able to show you the final product as I dont want to share my seed words :-).  But overall I am really happy with how these turned out. Plus it is a nice relief to know I dont have to 100% rely on my encrypted USB backups, and paper with my seeds. I give the ColdTi Titanium Wallet two big thumbs up!

If you are looking for a good opensource project to get involved with you may want to check out Ravencoin. It is something that you can mine with a simple gaming pc. Here is a link in case your interested in checking it out.

The post ColdTi titanium wallet review. appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.