Here you can see the CPU utilization maxing out pretty consistently when I checked it. Plus its only showing my CPU at .80GHz?

You can also see it by using the command chrome://sys-internals in the browser.

I was hoping that it might be fixed in a new Beta version so updated to the Beta channel and tried the new version 92 with no luck.

Version 92.0.4515.82 (Official Build) beta (64-bit) 

At this point I am at a loss and hope they might have a fix soon. If anyone else is having this issue with ChromeOS 91.0.4472.147 Running Slow you are not alone. I just reported it as an issue and hope they can resolve it quickly.  Otherwise I may be doing some computer shopping soon for her, but she loves her little Chromebook.

If I find a solution I will update the post and add it here.

UPDATE: Looks like someone already reported it as a bug here 1226037 – Terrible Performance on Grunt Device After 91.0.4472.147 Update – chromium

Possible fix

UPDATE 2: I was playing around and after powering off my chromebook a few times and it did not seem to help, But when I tried holding down the power button for about a full minute to drain power off the motherboard (Chromebook was not plugged in) it seems much better now. Also after powering it back up after holding down the button I now see when I run diagnostics that the CPU core is no longer stuck at .80Ghz and the Chromebook is much snappier and working better. There is still a problem as I see it still going to 100% CPU usage, but it is improved and I can actually use it now with less frustration.

Also It looks like I am on a new Beta version 92.13982.0 so that might also have helped. Not sure when that was updated from the original post here. The previous Beta version was showing the same slowdown symptoms before this.  So not 100% sure which one of these helped. Good luck!

The post ChromeOS 91.0.4472.147 Running Slow appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

The Wansview W6 Blue iris IP camera.

Here is a quick snapshot of what you get in the box the Wansview W6 IP camera.

My main concern was its compatibility of the Wansview W6 with BlueIris and if it would work together. It took a bit of trial and error, but here is what worked for me.

Wansview W6 Blue Iris Setup.

Step 1. First I followed the instructions and installed the Wansview App, this allowed me to use my phone to change the camera settings.

Step 2. Once the App was installed I went ahead and set it up for a wired connection as I had a wired ethernet connection available. The Wansview Cloud App detected the camera and it mentioned it needed to update the firmware I went ahead and completed the firmware update.

Step 3. I set my router to always give the MAC address for the wansview W6 camera the same IP.

Step 4. After playing around this is my current setup that is working: Currently I have tried ONVIF turned both off and on and either works (Default port 8899), I do have RSTP port set to 554 under the “Local Application” in the App. The port is set to 554.

Step 5. I also set the login / password for the camera as admin /fancypassword under “Local Application” -> “Local Account” in the app.

Then in Blue Iris I set up my camera with the following Video settings.

As you can see I set the top address as RSTP. Originally I copied over the line from the Wansview Cloud App “Local Application” –> “RSTP” and the full line they show that included my new login and password. I copied that into the top address line in Blue Iris and it adjusted it after reopening to look like it does now in the screenshot above.

SUMMARY

I had seem some other people had issues with this Wansview W6 camera and Blue Iris so wanted to share this information in case it helps. The video is working great for me. It also appears stable so far. I did not test the audio yet and will update this if I do that.

Now as for the Video quality. Its not as good as my Reolink 5MP cameras. But this is only a 2MP camera and was about half the price. So really I can’t complain. It does its job and will work for what I need it to do. I hope this helps, I will update this post with a snapshot of outside the house with the camera for reference.

So far I am happy with the result. I do wish it had better resolution, but I can live with this for what I need.

The post Wansview W6 BlueIris setup appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

It was an easy process to swap out and the shop it was at recently quoted about 60 Dollars to do it. I purchased a new filter on Amazon for about 15 dollars and it took a few minutes to do. My guess is it can be swapped out in about a minute or two if you have done it before.

DISCLAIMER: This post is for entertainment purposes only. I am not  a professional mechanic. This is just explaining how I fixed the issue on my car.  I will not be held responsible for any issues that may arise if you decide to replace yours yourself.  

The Filter

The Subaru part number I found for the 2015 Impreza cabin filter is:  72880FG000 

I purchased a brand called ECOGUARD and they had the part number listed as XC36115. Here is a picture of it below. I also did see a Impreza HEPA filter available from another brand (Bosch). I chose this one this time, but might try the HEPA filter next. It was only slightly more expensive.

The installation

Basically the filter is located behind the glovebox. To get to it you need to do the following.

1. Open your passenger side glovebox.

2. On the right side you need to pull off the glove box stop from the clip. (I have no idea what this is called so here is a picture)

3. Release the clip on each side of the glove box to be able to lower it. I did this by pushing on each side.

4. Once your glovebox is out you will see the Filter behind it. You just pull it out and swap it with the new one. Make sure your new one does not get put in upside down.

5. After swapping out the filter, I put the glovebox back.  A job well done and I saved about 40 bucks.

Summary

Here you can see my old cabin filter after I pulled it out. Yikes it looks bad. This is such an easy change I should have done this a while ago when we first purchased this car.

Now that I know its there, and that easy to swap out, I will probably do this every time I swap out the engine air filter. The engine air filter still looks new since my last change.  If you want to see a video of the Impreza cabin filter change, you can see it at this link here : Video cabin filter change.  

The main tips I can think of are make sure you look at the cabin filter as you remove it to make sure you out the new one back in in the correct orientation. I could see where people wonder what direction does the cabin filter go.

As for the Subaru cabin filter interval, My Subaru manual mentions to replace the Air Cleaner element every 30,000 miles.

Again ,while I went cheap with this filter this time. I think next time I will go ahead and spend the extra 10 bucks and see if the Subaru Impreza HEPA filter works any better. Allergy season is just starting and i wonder if that might help keep more pollen out of the car.

If you are hearing a weird road noise, like a growl of sorts that starts when hitting speeds of around 30+ MPG. You may want to check out this post of the issue we had LINK.

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I had been hearing this light noise while driving my 2015 Impreza. It would usually start up around 30 mph. It was not that loud at first, and barley noticeable. Since it started the family and I have been driving the car just mainly around town and I had not driven it on the freeway in a while. But when I drove it last weekend on a long trip it was really noticeable on the freeway. I would hear it especially loud when I hit a patch of pavement that was quiet. It was kind of a low growl that would change tone with my speed. My first fear was it was the CVT transmission starting to have an issue. I went ahead and scheduled an appointment to have it looked at. I decided to post this as they found what was causing my Subaru Impreza Road growl noise.

The Fix

I scheduled an appointment at the shop and they checked it out. Turns out it was a bad drivers side wheel bearing. I was pretty relived it wasn’t the CVT transmission, as I hear they are pretty expensive to have replaced.  This wheel bearing was not cheap like an older cars wheel bearings. It ended up running close to 600 dollars to fix once you included labor. But that being said I am happy with the result. I just got the car back tonight and it is super quiet on the road now.   

The Cost

I probably should not have let it go this long, and had it looked at when I first heard the noise. But am glad it was finally fixed/replaced. I checked the price of the part they listed on the receipt and it was around $250 dollars if I ordered it from Subaru. The part number listed was 28373FL010A Wheel Brg/Hub Front . They also replaced a 902170049 Axle Nut. So it was roughly about $300 labor.  I did not look up how hard this was to replace myself. But am still pleased with the result as I did not really have time to tackle it myself. Too bad it was out of warranty.

Here are the parts they listed they replaced:

• 902170049   AXLE NUT
• 28373FL010A  Wheel Brg/Hub Front

This is a snapshot from the receipt.

Summary

The drive home sounded great. I had done a quick search of the internet looking for info on this before taking it in and did not find much. Maybe it was my search just terms. I and am not sure how widespread this might be on Subaru’s. Mine has around 70,000 miles. So thought I would post this on my blog just in case someone else has the same issue and might wonder what it could be.

Also if you are looking for a new set of tires, Just wanted to say I am really pleased with this set of OHTSU’s I purchased from Discount tire. I think they are a great deal and basically rebranded Falken’s. Here is my review on them.-  LINK

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For reference I purchased these on Amazon with my own money. I do have other earbuds I use such as the Anker Soundcore Liberty Neo and Galaxy buds. While these are working well, I always like to try some new brands and see how they compare. The model I am reviewing is the AUKEY “AUKEY-EP-T10(Upgraded)”

FEATURES:

Here are the features I liked when looking at the AUKEY True Wireless earbuds. Along with the really good price. (25 dollars on sale at the time of this writing).

• USB-C charging
• Wireless Charging
• IPX-5 Waterproof
• Touch control
• 7 Hour playtime

What’s in the box.

The Aukey earbuds came in a really nice little box. I was impressed with the packaging. It did not have a cheap feel at all and felt like opening a more expensive set of headphones. What you get in teh box are Spare eartips, Spare ear wings,  a USB C cable and the users manual.

Battery Longevity:

I used them all day at work on multiple conference calls and listening to music. This was constant use and I think they are about right with the 7 hours. I think for me it might have been around 6.5 – 7 hours before they needed to be recharged. For me this was not an issue as this is about the same as my Soundcore Neo’s. I am still in the habit of popping them back into the case for a few minutes between calls. So really these type of earbuds rated for 6 – 7 hours seem to last me all day and I have no issues with how long these last as it was what I expected.

Sound quality

I think these are right on par with my other buds. I feel like it may be a personal preference to choose between them as which one sounds best. The base was a little less pronounced than in my Liberty Neos, and seemed to sound more inline with the Galaxy buds to me. To me an over the ear headset always sounds the best, bit for earbuds I think these sounded pretty good.

Comfort

They feel a little larger than the Anker Liberty Neos and seem to be more shaped like the Galaxy Buds. See the picture below for the size comparison. The Aukey earbuds are comfortable to wear, I used the largest tips to block out the most surrounding noise. I think I am probably on the larger ear size I guess. I am around 5’11 and have a decent size head.

Here is a closeup of the size and shape  of the Aukey Earbuds in relation to Samsung and Ankers earbuds. Again you can see the Aukey Earbuds have a shape that more closely resembles Samsung galaxy buds.

Touch controls.

The Aukey really shined in this department. I really like the touch control and reminded me of the Galaxy buds. I thought this is much better than some earbuds like my Liberty Neo that have a push button.

Charging

USB-C is great! I wish my Anker earbuds had this, and it was a big reason I wanted these. I think this is a huge plus for earbuds in this price range. It also has wireless charging which I have not tried yet. But that’s another great feature you usually do not see in this price range.

Usability

Day in and day out they are working great for me, but I will nitpick a couple items. First is they only connect to one device at a time. This is not just a problem with Aukey, but also my Anker and Galaxy buds.  My over the ear Bluetooth headsets can connect to a couple devices which is nice when wanting to have connected to computer and phone at once. The other is they are a little harder to remove from the case than my Galaxy buds and Anker buds. I think I would have preferred a more traditional flip open case with more room to get my fingers around the buds. But I am able to get them out and they may be more secure in this type of case, so that is probably a personal preference.

PROS vs CONS

Pros:

• Price – Really good rice for these options.
• USB-C and Wireless charging
• Good sound

Cons:

• Only connects to one device at a time
• Could be a little easier to remove from the case.

SUMMARY

I give these earbuds two thumbs up. Mainly for the low price point and having both USB and Wireless charging. Plus they are a comfortable earbud to wear and have a quality feel and sound. I was able to walk a fair distance from my phone and they still maintained Bluetooth contact. I have been a big fan of Anker products, but I feel Aukey has really stepped up with these extra features.

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OLOy company

I did not know much about this new OLOy brand I was seeing lately, so decided to look them up. When looking up OLOy I found they are based out of Hong Kong and the company was established in 2018. Their company website listed that they started selling on Amazon and Newegg in March of 2019. They did have a way to contact them through the website and I saw an RMA form. (Hopefully I will never need to use it.)

Unboxing the OLOy Ram

The ram was well packaged and showed up with no issues. Here is a picture of the front and back of the box.

One of the reasons I ordered this model besides the price, was I wanted RAM that had a low profile. As you can see this ram does have a low profile that would hopefully allow any heat sink I use for my CPU to not be hindered.

The Ram heat spreaders look like they will do a decent job as well.

My system I am installing these into is equipped as follows.

• Motherboard – ASRock B560M Pro4/ac
• CPU – Intel Core i7 10700
• GPU – GTX 1060 6gb
• Power Supply – EVGA 850BQ

The OLOy Ram installed with no issues. And I turned on XMP in my BIOS and was able to get the advertised rate of speed (3200). For the BIOS I am using XMP Profile 1 which shows DDR-4 3200 16-20-20-38 1.35v. I have been using them for almost a month now with no issues at all.  I skipped my memtest as I was anxious to get the new PC up. Although I plan to go back and run it later and update the results here. No issues have popped up with this OLOy ram so I am not sure it is even needed.

Result

All in all, I would say this is a great product for the price. It does not have any fancy RGB’s and I think this model is rather plain looking. But it seems to be a decent RAM for the price so far. I will update this post if I run into any reliability issues. But so far so good. No complaints. My other RGB RAM I am using that has been great so far is T-Force Delta, here is a link to that post HERE.

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I just picked up a new RTX 3080 Founders Edition that I am using to mine Ravencoin using the KAWPOW algorithm. Here are my results in case you are wondering what the RTX 3080 Kawpow hashrate is.

I do want to mention I made some adjustments to my RTX 3080 FE card to add some more cooling. See this link for the heatsink I added.

Hardware

Hardware specs on my system are as follows in case you were wondering

• Motherboard – Gigabyte AX370 Gaming
• CPU – Ryzen 7 1700
• RAM – 32 GB
• GPU – RTX 3080 Founders Edition
• Power Supply – EVGA 1000 GQ (A little overkill I know.)

Software

While I usually use the Kawpow miner on my desktop. When I tried it with the RTX 3080FE it would not recognize it. So I went ahead and did this testing using the TREX v0.19.12 miner.  I used the Cuda 11 version.

Hash – vs – Noise – vs – Heat

One thing to mention. My main goal is to keep the card somewhat quiet as its in my office PC and I do not want to listen to the noise. So far I have added some extra heat sinks and an additional pci slot fan cooler blowing at the card.   Both of these changes has helped bring down the temp and fan speed. Although not as much as I had hoped. Wanting to bring down the GPU Memory Junction temps which run high on these cards, I also ordered some new Thermal pads.  ( Currently waiting for them to show up). I will update the post once I get the thermal pads.

Here is a picture of my current setup.

Results

Here are the results I am seeing. They do slightly vary as when I use the my desktop the hash rate does seem to drop 1-3 MH/s as it is my only video card on the system.  The results are from running it while not using the PC. Also I had the memory and CPU at a slight overclock. The fan speed is what the fan was running at while mining. I think 55% is as much as i can handle in my office. My goal is to get it under 50%.

Summary

So far I am pretty happy so far with the RTX 3080 Kawpow hashrate and fan speed at 55%. I hope the thermal pad mod will bring down the temps and fan speed even more. As I mentioned before I will do a post on the thermal pads with some pictures and temps once they show up. As for Eth, I have tried it, but the fan really cranks up and gets to noisy for me. So I plan to do my testing on that after the pad mod. But even then, I will probably still mine Ravencoin as I really enjoy the project. You can check out more information on Ravencoin at the foundation link here.

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Now first I must say for the price I really like this motherboard. Everything was working great besides this M.2 issue. I was able to get the OS installed when I moved my M.2 into the second slot (ULTRA M.2). (The one without the built in heatsink.)  So why wasn’t the first slot working?

Well it looks like it will not work in that first slot unless you have a Gen 11 Intel Processor. I am using a Gen 10 i7 10700. The wording in the manual left this in question, but when looking at the website it makes it more clear.

The manual that came with the Motherboard states:

“The Hyper M.2 Socket (M2_1) supports M Key type 2242/2260/2280 M.2 PCI Express module up to Gen4x4 (64Gb/s) (Only supported with 11th Gen Intel Core processors)”

I took this to mean it if you want Gen4x4 (64Gb/s) functionality you need a 11th Gen, but maybe the older 10 would still work at a slower speed. That appears to not be the case and was a misunderstanding on my part. Bummer.

The website did make it more clear by stating : “(Socket M2_1 works with 11th Gen Intel^® Core™ processors only)”

You can read it on this ASRock B560M Pro4/ac webpage here under storage if you were wondering- Link: B560M Pro4/ac

So if your having the problem with your M.2 SSD not being recognized in your ASRock B560M motherboard I hope this helps. Its a bummer i cant use that nice slot with the heatsink built in. I guess it will go to waste until I can get a Gen 11 CPU.

Summary

Here is where I ended up mounting my M.2 SSD for reference. I can use the Green slot (ULTRA M.2), but not the Red slot (HYPER M.2) and this is by design. MYPER M.2 is only available if you have a Gen 11 CPU.

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I was looking at the temps on my RTX 3080 FE video card with HWinfo64 and noticed that even when lowering the power limit the memory temps were really high (GPU Memory Junction Temperature). They were reaching up to 108C and I read throttling kicks in at 110C.  I didn’t like the high temps and also didn’t like the noise of the card running when temps reach that high. I plan on trying the igorslab pad mod, but wanted to also see what I could achieve by just cooling the backplate without opening up the card. To do this I added an additional RTX 3080fe heatsink to the backplate.

Also my requirements are a little different then most miners.  I am just using this single 3080FE in my desktop. This is in my office so noise is also a concern. I am looking for a balance between sounds/heat and hashrate. With a priority on keeping the sound as low as possible. I also wanted to keep the heat down to hopefully get a long life out of the card. So I don’t mind suffering a lower hashrate for this. That is why I usually lower the power limit. But my goal here is to improve the cooling without adding to much noise, so I can raise the hashrate.

If you have ever touched the backplate of the RTX 3080FE when it is mining you will notice it get really hot. Currently for baseline I am mining Kawpow with stock mem/cpu settings and at a 70% power limit. The GPU Memory Junction temp seems to be stable around 100C jumping up to 102C sometimes. If I raise the power limit it seems to hit the 104C range or higher.

Ordering the heatsinks

So I started by ordering a couple different size aluminum heatsinks from Amazon. I ordered two smaller 100x40x22mm and a larger 100x69x36mm heatsink. The plan was to use the shorted ones in the front by the fan area and the larger heatsink in the back. (After starting this I decided I want to use the shorter ones for the back as well for clearance issues, so I ordered a couple more of those. But being impatient I continued anyways with what I had)

Cutting the heatsinks

This post is for entertainment only, I am not responsible if you try this and damage your card, property, or injure yourself. 

Once I had the heatsinks I did some quick measurements on the smaller ones and marked them with a sharpie for cutting. I mangled the first one as I did not clamp it down and it flew from my cutter.  The second one I clamped it down and used a Sawzall and it was a much better cut.  Then I filed the edges to remove any burs and loose shavings.

Here is my first mangled cut, what a mess. I was able to straighten it somewhat.

Here it is after straightening the best I could and then my second attempt on the second heatsink that I cut much better.

Mounting the heatsinks

Luckily I was able to take the end pieces and put a couple together and use them as well. I also decided to line up the fins to catch the air blowing from the front of the case to the back of the case. Here is me just lining them up to see how they will fit. I could have done a little better on the first piece, I may redo it in the future to make it look better.

Next I used some thermal adhesive heatsink tape to apply them. Basically its like a double-sided tape to hold them in place (You can see it in the above picture) .

For the back area of the RTX 3080fe I ended up just doing a rough cut on the large heatsink and mounting it while I wait for my two more shorter heatsinks to show up. Here it is installed now with the larger back heatsink.

Summary

As you can see its not pretty. The larger additional RTX 3080fe heatsink does not cover the whole back area. This will be resolved when my second batch of shorter heatsinks show up. The heatsinks are still doing there job, and the heat transfer is good as they are warm to the touch. They are also keeping the GPU memory junction cooler. Using the same settings as before I am now sitting at an average of around 98 with the temp bouncing between 96C-100C range. Mainly staying around 98C.

So far I feel this has been worth it. It seems to run cooler, and a little quieter. Also I want to mention while it seems like it dropped the temp 1-2C for the card at a 70% power limit, I bumped it up to 75% and it seems to be about where it was when I didn’t have a heatsink at 70%. I also tried mining ETH and had it at 80% and it does not seem like it is as effective. I think when running at a higher power limit the results are not as noticeable.

Of course this is a non technical guess as I did not take temperature of my room or any detailed logs. I will update this once I get the new shorter heatsinks and cover the rest of the back of the card. I am doing this in stages before opening the card and voiding the warranty by adding new thermal pads.

Next steps.

I will add the new heatsinks to cover the back of the card and replace the taller unit that did not have the full coverage. I also ordered some Noctua fans to mount underneath the card and blow air up into the card from the bottom. Thinking these silent fans may assist with cooling and help lower the heat and 3080FE fan speed to make it even quieter. I also plan on getting some thermal pads and doing the internal thermal pad mod. I will update the post as I do these.

[UPDATE] NOCTUA Fan add

I ordered a PCI fan bracket and added three Noctua fans. I will not go into the details, but here is a picture of it. Basically I mounted it under the RTX3080FE and the cooling was negligible. Maybe it dropped a degree at most for the mem junction. It may also have slightly helped reduce the fan speed on the card. But it was not anything dramatic and I would not waste the money to do it again. I do love Noctua fans, but for this situation it did not help me much.

The fans I used in the pci cooler above were Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 92mm.

[UPDATE 2 ]THE BIG FIX

Ok, now that I tried what I could without opening the card, my thermal pads finally showed up and I could try them. Spoiler alert. This was the big fix. I added the new Thermalright 12.8 W/mk pads to the front and rear of the card replacing the old ones and adding to a few new spot. I also did a repaste of the GPU itself with Arctic MX-4 thermal compound. After a few issues with pad sizes and the GPU getting hot, I was able to get the results I wanted after the second try. I still have the 3080FE Heatsink I made on the card as I do think that helps dissipate the heat.

Basically now I am mining Eth and getting 97-100 Mh/s and able to get +1500 OC on my memory at 70% power limit. My temps are stable with the GPU averaging 51.7C, Mem junction Avg 84.9C and peaked at 90C. Plus my fan only needs to run at 51-53%!

I was pretty blown away by these results and am very happy. I will grab all my pictures from doing the pad mod and post a new article and link it here showing some of my stumbling blocks when doing this. But the main thing I am happy with was bringing down that memory junction temp so no thermal throttling. Keeping the card cooler should help longevity.

The post Add RTX 3080FE heatsink cooling appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

The problem: LG 34UM68-P Wont power on.

(This post is for entertainment purposes only, If you do not know what you are doing you should have a professional fix your monitor as you could injure yourself or damage your property. )

Not sure why, but for some reason after removing the power without powering it off from the monitor (I just unplugged it from the back) My LG 34UM68-P Wont power on. The little purple light still glows at the bottom of the monitor, but otherwise it is dead. It was disappointing as I love this monitor and use it everyday for fun and work. I even tried swapping it out with a Samsung 34 inch Ultrawide that had higher resolution, but it just did not look as good to me. I like the IPS panel of the LG over the VA panel of the Samsung.  For the me 2560×1080 resolution of the LG 34UM68-P is perfect. Especially when paired with another 27inch LCD at 1920×1080. For me its a perfect setup for my desk.

Ok, back to the issue.

Since I didn’t like my new replacement monitor I decided to try fixing the LG 34UM68-P. I took the stand off, then removed the back panel. Once I looked inside I figured the problem would be the main board a EAX66876002 (1.0) or the power button board which looks like the number was EAX65469603 (It was hard to read as it was so small). So first I took some closeup pictures and zoomed in and looked for broken solder joints, or issues. I found nothing that looks bad. The capacitors also visibly looked fine.

Finally after not finding anything I figured I would have to get a new main board and try it out. Looking on the internet I could not find the EAX66876002 for sale. I did find some EAX66876001 for sale but looking at the picture, it was missing one of the connectors I needed. Not sure what that model is for.

Solution

The fix for this wasn’t free.  What I ended up doing was finding a broken LG 34UM68-P on eBay with a cracked screen and buying it for $50 dollars. I swapped out the mainboard first and that fixed the issue. Snapped the back cover back on and I was good to go. The monitor is working perfect again. I do count myself lucky for being able to find a broken monitor to grab a mainboard from. Here is a picture of me about to swap it out.

Side note: I did read somewhere that the LG 29UM68-P board would also work but I can not verify that. I was just informed by someone who saw this that the LG 29UM68-P version of the board is missing half of the power circuit for the LCD backlight, So do not get that version if you have the LG 34UM68-P (Thanks for the heads up! Super appreciated!). But I was keeping an eye out for one of those as well and was going to investigate further if I found one.  Anyways glad my LG 34UM68-P monitor not powering on issue is finally fixed.

For reference here is the link to the LG website for the manual and specs.

If you need some RGB backlighting for the LG monitor or TV you might like this post here.

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