Disclaimer:  This article is not financial advice, or instructions on how you should do anything,  it is for entertainment purposes only. 

First a little bit about Ravencoin as their goal is a little different then some other crypto currencies.

RAVENCOIN

Ravenscoin main goal seems to be based on using the blockchain for documenting ownership and transfer of assets. You can go to ravencoin.org to read the whitepaper. But to summarizesome of it, Ravencoin is based on a fork of the Bitcoin code. Ravencoin is free and opensource, so while it does have a community backing and some people developing it. My understanding is there is no CEO, and no person actually “In charge” of the project.  There appears to be no Pre Mine, ICO involved which is a plus. If your interested in the project I suggest you visit the website.

COIN Details

Distribution – 21,000,000,000
Block time – 1 minute
Block Reward – 5000 RVN
Algorithm –  X16R

x16r Algorithm

Ravencoin is mined using the x16r Algorithm which is one of the things that first caught my interest with this coin. The x16r algorithm (I will just say x16r for short now) is being used as it is currently more asic resistant then some other algorithms being used by other coins. The reasoning for going with an algorithm that is more asic resistant, is to be more decentralized. What is really cool about x16r is that it actually consists of 16 other algorithms operating in a chain fashion with a random order being used based on the last 8 bytes of the hash of the previous block.

The algorithms being used by x16r are the following.

So far the x16r seems to be more efficient on NVIDIA video cards. Which also caught my attention as my mining rig consists of Nvidia cards.

My mining  Rig GPU configuration.

• 1 QTY – EVGA GTX 1070ti SC Gaming = 08G-P4-5671-KR (Memory Micron)
• 1 QTY – EVGA GTX 1070 SC Gaming = 08G-P4-6173-KR (Memory Micron)
• 1 QTY – EVGA GTX 1060 SSC = 06G-P4-6264-KB (Memory Micron)
• 2 QTY – EVGA GTX 750ti’s (Both Samsung Memory)

Card Settings

For stability reasons I have left my GTX 750ti’s at stock settings. I also had some issues with my GTX 1070 at 65% power so it is currently at 70%. I also had some issues when I adjusted my core clocks to high, so for now they are all at +99 (with the exception of the 750ti’s)

NVIDIA Hashrates for Ravencoin

Here is an approximate hash rates I am seeing for these cards. Its a little harder to figure out as the algorithm is changing randomly. But I would my average is in this ballpark.

Looking at my mining rig in the mining pool right now, I can see it is currently averaging around 30.9 Mh/s.  But is has fluctuated a lot higher and lower depending on which algorithm they are on. (In the chart below I also have a Gigabit GTX 1060 and a Sapphire RX570 8Gb I am testing. But those are not included in any stats for this article)

As you can see in the summary, the mining software I am currently using is nevermore 0.2.3 for my Nvidia cards.

Power Costs

This is for my mining rig only, and does not include the RX570 or Gigabyte card in the screenshot above as they are in separate computers.

Here is an example of running the rig for the ~5 days on Raven. You can see the wattage does fluctuate a lot as it switches algorithms. But it usually stayed in the range of 480-500 Watts. (The chart below is 1 minute sample rates)

Here is a chart for Average monthly KWh. Looks to be trending around 350KWh Avg per month.

Basically you would just take your average KWh per month and multiply it by what your electric company charges per KWh. Then you get your monthly cost. I can just plug in my cost per KWh (.12) and my meter calculates it for me. So as you can see below it will cost me about $42. a month to run the mining rig. (BTW, this is a great power meter that can even keep track of your costs as you accrue it, You can check out my review on it here. You can find the meters used for under $30 bucks like I did. )

Is mining Ravencoin profitable?

OK, now that we know the costs of mining Ravencoin with my RIG, how many coins will I make?  There are a few calculators for calculating this on the web. I tend to use whattomine or ravencalc which you can find online. But with the current difficulty it appears I will make about ~150 coins a day.  Now the difficulty can go up and down so this is just a rough estimate. With Raven at about .03 per coin that would be around $4.5 USD a day. So if it stayed at that price I would be making approx. $135 a month if I keep mining it, then  subtract  $42 for power costs. Which would end up leaving about $93 a month if nothing changed. Then you have tax implications for what you earn depending on where you live. The price of the coin could go up or down, GPUs can break, The coin could turn out to be worth nothing leaving me with just power bills to pay and taxes. So none of this is financial advice on if you should mine or not. This is just a fun hobby for me and wanted to share my experiences. If you decide to buy hardware to mine with, I suggest you also figure in the fact that the difficulty will probably keep rising and the amount of coins you make could be less then what the online mining calculators show as time increases.

My mining Rig

I just wanted to share the configuration of my mining rig for reference and it includes links if you want to check it out.

Here is my parts list for my rig :

ASUS Prime Z270-A
WD Blue 3D NAND 250GB PC SSD – SATA III 6 Gb/s M.2 2280 Solid State Drive – WDS250G2B0B
Intel BX80662G4400 Pentium Processor G4400 3.3 GHz FCLGA1151
Patriot Memory DDR4 4GB 2133MHz – PVE44G213C4GY (I have two sticks)
Warmstor 2 Pack 2 Pin SW PC Desktop Power Cable on/off Push Button ATX Computer Switch Wire 60cm
Ubit 12-PCS PCI-E Riser I only bought 6 of these, not a 12 pack.
EVGA 1000 GQ, 80+ GOLD 1000W, Semi Modular, EVGA ECO Mode, 5 Year Warranty, Power Supply 210-GQ-1000-V1
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB SSC GAMING Graphics Card 06G-P4-6267-KR
EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC GAMING Graphics Card 08G-P4-6173-KR
EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 Ti SC GAMING 08G-P4-5671-KR
EVGA 750ti (These were old video cards I had sitting around, why not put them to use 🙂
AAAwave Sluice 8GPU mining frame
LEDdess Wireless RF COntrol RGB LED 120mm fans

Mining software

Currently I am using Windows 10 as the OS.
Afterburner for the overclocking and power settings.
Nevermore 0.2.3 for the mining software (Can be found on GitHub)

I plan to do a getting started in mining article soon. But if your new to mining, check out the ravencoin.org website and you could get started by downloading a wallet. This will give you an address to mine to. Then you would need to download a program to start mining. I suggest googling ravencoin miners as there are few out there. (I am using Nevermore). Then you need to find a mining pool to start mining on. (This also gets added to your mining software config) Some mining pools have a getting started section to help out. The pool I am currently mining on is ravenminer.com

I hope you found this helpful. Happy mining everyone.

The post Mining Ravencoin with NVIDIA Video Cards. appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

I was looking around for a decently priced power meter with data logging for my mining rig, and wasn’t having much luck at finding anything. I already own a Kill-A-Watt (P3) which does show me what I wanted on the screen at that moment in time, but I really wanted to have everything logged. Then I stumbled upon the Watts Up? power meter. This seemed to have all the features I wanted. It would data log the info, and I could pull it into a table or I could graph it. It could record a fast as once per second, and track all the stats I was looking for. The main stats I wanted to watch was Watts, and Watt Hours. But this had a lot more features. A few that I really liked were Monthly Average Cost, Cumulated Cost  and Monthly Average KWh.  You could program in your cost per  KWh and see real time your current costs on the meter and what your average monthly cost is.

The Downside:

Then came the initial downside. I found out the Watts Up? meter is no longer being made and is discontinued.  After seeing the original asking price of the Watts up, I found that this might actually be an upside. Since it is no longer being made or supported I could find these meters used for really cheap. I purchased one of the upper end models the “Watts Up .Net” for under $35 dollars shipped on ebay (The original retail price I saw online was $235.95 for the .net model). They have lots of them for sale used on ebay and the price really varies. I see some of them selling for cheaper then I paid and some were a LOT more expensive, so shop around. Also some come with software and some don’t.

With no support and buying a product used, your mileage may vary.  But for $35 bucks I decided to try it out. I want to mention I do see some people posting software for it on Github. But I really haven’t searched much yet to see if there is much of a following for these meters. I also found a Pro version of their software on newegg, but it was kinda spendy. (It looks like the pro version gives you real-time data on your screen instead of having to pull it from the device by clicking retrieve.)

Here is the meter I purchased. The Top-o-the-line Watts up? .net

I found there were 4 different versions being sold of the “WATTS UP?” meter.

Here are some differences and details on why I chose the .NET model.

“Watts Up?” This appears to be the cheapest model. And from what I could see online it does not appear to have a USB port and did not do any Data logging. I think it only displays info like my Kill-A-Watt P3.

“Watts Up?  Pro” This did have Data logging and a USB port to to hook up to your PC.  It stated it could hold over 2,000 Records with all parameters being measured (and over 30,000 if just watts.) But depending on your sample rate, and if you want to track a few separate indicators, that may not last very long before over writing the data.

“Watts Up?  Pro ES” Appears to be the same as the Pro model but with more memory. Able to store up to 8,000 records, or 120,000 if just Watts. 

“Watts Up?  .NET” This was their top of the line model. It includes an Ethernet connection for internet logging. (It appears watts up used to have a webserver you could connect to, but the link I tried for it is no longer available) But supposedly you can also use it to connect to a Intranet server on your own network which would be really cool. The “.NET” model is supposed to have a built in webserver (From what I can tell so far it’s not a GUI but you can use API’s and uses port 80). It also has Enhanced Data integrity for harsh line loads. The amount of memory is the same as the “PRO ES” model with 8,000/120,000 records capability as mentioned above. But also had an option for extended memory. (I need to check to see if the one I bought has this extra option). Plus a big feature that was listed is POWER SWITCHING 🙂 . Supposedly I should be able to turn the power on/off based on rules. Like peak usage, or cumulative usage, or manually reboot my miner, or just turn it off.  Needless to say, this was the version I looked for even if I probably wont use all the features. 

Here is a side view of the Watts Up .NET version showing the Ethernet connection and the USB connection. Unfortunatly the USB connection is a MINI USB. But this is an older device.

The Watts Up? .Net meter records the following 18 parameters.

• Watts
• Volts
• Amps
• Watt Hours
• Cost
• Monthly Average KWhr
• Monthly Average Cost
• Max Watts
• Max Volts
• Max Amps
• Min Watts
• Min Volts
• Min Amps
• Power Factor
• Duty Cycle
• Power Cycle
• Line Frequency
• Volt-Amps

I find it handy as these can be displayed on the meter itself, or you can graph it through the software. The software is not real time. I have to “Request” the data and then it imports it to the computer from the device. This is not an issue for me, but I do see as mentioned earlier they have a Pro version of the software available. I also have not tried any of the webserver capabilities yet.

For the record, I do not have instructions and have just been playing around with it and googling a few things. But it is pretty self explanatory in the units menus. You just use the Mode button to toggle between different modes such as Watts, Amps  and Cost. Then you use the select button to view the items under that mode. Only two buttons to deal with. It also seems that you can change the settings on the meter itself. By holding down the select button. But I just used the software. (To change things like my local cost per KWh)

Viewing the data on a PC.

Here I am retrieving the Data that is being stored internally on the device. This is why I think the PRO ES and .NET models are better as they have more memory.

You can go into meter settings and set your cost per KWH.

Here you can see where you set your logging interval. I just chose 15 seconds. but have played around with 1 second and 1 minute as well. As you change the interval, you see the duration change as well. The duration also depends on how many parameters you are capturing.

Here you can pick your parameters to log.

In the graph below the power meter was logging data while my Miner was idle and then I started mining some Zencash. You can see my power jump from an idle (Around 68 Watts) to around 500 Watts. You can do 3D graphs or 2D, and select which parameter you want to graph.

Below you can see I was running Equihash for about an hour. You can see it ranges between around 504 and 506 watts.

Now looking at that same data I pulled, I can graph the Average monthly cost. Around $43 bucks to keep the rig mining Equihash (Zencash).

Now you can calculate this info manually and there are also plenty of sites that have mining calculators on them. But this meter will be based off of your data and your usage. You can even graph your cumulative costs so you can see how much your current spending costs are. Possibly, shutting down your miner at a certain cost when you reach it if what I read online was correct. Pretty fancy for only 35$.

I thought this chart below was interesting. I tried running the x16r algorithm which rotates the algo based on the last hash. If you mine this algo a lot this might come in handy for tracking costs as the wattage really fluctuates. X16R had a range of 285 and 500Watts on my rig.

Ok, I know, not another chart, but just wanted to throw up an example of charting wattage at 1 second intervals for about an hour.   This was for the same rig but this time I was mining the Cryptonight Heavy Algo (Sumokoins new algorithm). Amazing to have this level of detail for only 35 bucks.

Ok, I wont bore you with charts of my rig, but you can see that being able to log your data usage can be really useful.  I better get to the summary before I put up another chart. 🙂 Seriously why do I like stuff like this. I was trying to explain to my wife how cool this was, and I didn’t get the type of response I wanted (Which I should have expected as this stuff is not really her jam.) So off to my blog to share with others who might like it.

Summary:

I plan to add more to this review soon as I play around with the meter more.  I really feel like I am just scratching the surface on this meter and what it can do. Once I figure out the Webserver, the remote power switching etc I should have a lot more details. But I feel that for $35 bucks this was money well spent. I still like my Kill-A-Watt and I think its a handy tool, but the advantages of being able to log my data really makes me think these are a better option. To bad they are no longer being made. I hope it ends up being reliable and lasts me for a while. I will update this if I run into any troubles with it. One downside was it looks like you need the pro version software to be able to see it real time on my screen. Seems like they purposefully held back that feature. Maybe I can find the pro version for cheap someplace. I have not really looked yet.

While my main purpose was to track my mining rigs electrical costs. (And goof off with a new toy). I think this would be useful for others who are trying to track any power usage.  If you already use one and have any cool info on it please let me know.

Here is a quick Youtube video review of the meter. 

The post Power Meter and Data logging for under $35. Watts Up? appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

So lets start the review. Here are the fans I ordered, the LEDdess Wireless RF COntrol RGB LED 120mm fans

It was a package of 6 fans for under 50 bucks, which was pretty good as I my mining rig uses 6 fans. (A lot of the other kits only had 5 fans. )

Unboxing

The fans came in two separate boxes taped together inside an amazon box. Here are the two boxes opened up.

Empting out the boxes and you end up with 6 RGB 120mm fans, a controller , tie wraps, some fan screws, and a remote.  Also a card that mentioned a 12 month warranty. (I hope I don’t need to use it)

Here is a close-up of the fan. They appeared to be decent quality. I liked the gray rubber on the corners.

Here is the Fan Controller. [UPDATE] While the hub controller  has ports for up to 10 fans and a couple LED RGB light strips. It was also pointed out to me that the website says it can run 8 fans.  I will have to plug in a few more fans to verify as I currently only have 6 RGB fans. I will update this with more info soon.

I went ahead and mounted all 6 fans on my aaawave sluice mining frame.

I left the cables undressed as I wanted to make sure all the fans worked before dressing them in.

I went ahead and fired them up. All 6 lit up and appeared to have no issues 🙂

Needless to say they looked really nice. I started to try the different pre-programmed displays and was amazed at how many choices there were.

The Remote

You can dim the LEDs when you are on single color setting which is nice, You can turn the LED’s OFF/ON. Auto cycle through the selections, Adjust the LED speed up/down. And manually cycle through the preset programs.

Summary:

These RGB LEDdess fans look great and appear to be a bargain compared to some of the other fans I have seen online. I was able to get 6 RGB fans, and the controller for under 50 bucks. I took a ton of pictures, but none of them really seem to do the fans justice. Plus it would be hard to show you how many choices there are with the preset programs. So I went ahead and did a video and cycled through the preset choices about every 3-5 seconds. Sorry its not the best video and was not edited at all, but it will give you get a better view of the color combos.

Youtube Video of all Color combos 

[UPDATE]

I was just asked a great question in the comments of the youtube video how they looked from the back. Since most people putting them in a case may need to see both sides. Here is a quick video on it. Sorry I accidentally shot this in portrait mode. I will go back and shoot a better video soon. But it will give you a good idea that even though the LEDs were shifted slightly towards the front, The rings still light up in the back and they still looked good.

Video of back of the fans – 

P.S. don’t touch the running fans… lol, oops.

Here is a new video with all six RGB fans installed into my sons case.  HERE

This is what it looks like, but you can get a better idea from the video.

I was asked about the power connection. Here is a better picture.  It uses the standard 4 pin molex connector from a power supply. This included cable I show below in the unboxing  plugs into the controller on the small connector end and the large connector plugs into your power supply cable.

Update 11/14/18 :

I just had someone comment on one of the videos that if you hold down the pink/purple button (For me it was the lower left) on the remote for 3 seconds it will take you straight into Rainbow mode 🙂 What a great tip as there are soooooo many color combinations.  Thank you!

The post LEDdess Wireless RF RGB Fan review appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

This is a continuation of the  $29 PC Makeover post I did earlier this week.  After getting the PC makeover done with a new PC case. (During which I raved to them about the advantages of having an SSD drive). It was decided to do another PC Upgrade. They decided they wanted to go with an SSD drive as well and have me reload windows for them.  They went ahead and ordered a WD 500G SSD drive (WDS500G2B0A) and also decided to order a PCI-E USB 3.0 card to be able to use the top ports on their new case ( In case you don’t remember this was an older motherboard that did not have the 20 pin USB 3.0 connector.)

There are the parts used:
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD WDS500G2B0A
Anker® Uspeed PCI-E to USB 3.0 2 Port Express Card, with 1 USB 3.0 20-pin Connector and 5V 4 Pin Male Power Connector

Lets get started.

Here is a picture of the new parts waiting to be installed. (TIP: Do not order a container of coconut oil at the same time as your hard drive, It was not well protected in the box and the coconut oil must have been rolling back and forth into the hard drive, Smashing it like you see in this picture. )

Luckily the hard drive was packaged well and appears to be fine. But would it have been to much to put a little bubble wrap inside the box? (It was probably packaged by a robot.) One thing I did like about this SSD drive is the fact it came in an ESD wrapping. That’s how I think all electronics should be packaged. Some of the other brands SSD’s I have purchased did not have this. But this SSD did run a little more money then some of the less known brands. Another nice thing was the hard drive had free same day shipping for prime members.

Here is the Anker PCI USB 3.0 card. Also same day shipping and a great price. But what I love about this card was it did not need any drivers loaded from the disk to work. Windows 10 found it and it functions just fine now. A big plus as I did not need to go searching for drivers on the internet, or hook up a temp CD drive just to install drivers.  I also have one of these in my PC and its been working fine for about 2 years. (Also an ESD bag, but I would expect that for any pc card)

The Install:

Here is where I ended up mounting the drive. I tried a couple other spots but did not like how the connectors fit with the cable routing.  Specifically the power cables.  This leaves the cables stress free. It even mounts to a little door that can be removed with a single screw. I did like how the case had these extra spots available.

Here is the Anker USB3.0 card plugged in. I am not very happy with the cable routing. It is not as clean as I had hoped. I put a molex extender on it to clean it up a little bit so I didn’t have the extra molex connector on the same cable dangling around the video card.  It still looks fine when the tinted glass covering it.

Now these ports are fully functional. Plus the drivers for the USB 3.0 card were installed by windows 10.

Here is the final product with the glass back on. Works great so far!

Summary:

While everyone is happy with how this turned out, there are a few things that I should mention. I suggested starting with a 250GB SSD drive. I recommended this even as they had over 1TB used up on their old drive (It was a 2TB drive). My plan was for them to just use the Windows OS and maybe a single game and some other misc items on the SSD,  Then use the 2T drive for their games and storage. 500GB is probably a little overkill for them and I thought they could save a bit of money and get away with a 250GB drive. But they wanted to go with the 500GB SSD. With the prices as cheap as they are now, probably not a bad choice and they wont have to worry about running out of space. I still think most people would be fine with a 250GB for a boot drive.

If you do decide to buy a new case, you may want to check it for USB2.0 if you have an older motherboard. In hindsight it would have been nice to still have a couple USB 2.0 ports on this case. But the USB 3.0 PCI card is a nice fix to get the top ports working.  (the card was under 20 bucks)

This case did not have a CD drive. For some this may be an issue. I haven’t used a CD for a while and keep a spare one around for emergency’s that I can plug in.  They are pretty cheap if you need one in the future.

The LED lights. I think they are cool, but my wife said if we had the case it would drive her nuts. So if you plan to keep your PC turned on all the time in your bedroom or someplace where everyone see’s it, you might want to buy something without all the LEDs.  But I think they are cool and it makes me want to upgrade my case now. But I have a separate office area my PC is kept in.

The post PC MAKEOVER PART II appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

OK, I don’t like rebates, but it is what it is. As it stands at the moment it is a $45 + tax +Free shipping Makeover.  So at the moment a $49 Makeover with a 20 dollar rebate that should be coming in the mail. When I get my 20 dollars back I will update this. Wow,that’s a mouthful. So lets get on with it,  as it turned out really well. [Update 7-5-18:  Well the rebate company went out of Business, But Newegg emailed me and they would cover the rebate. I got the rebate check promptly after the email. That’s one of the things I worry about with Rebates, but good customer service by Newegg. ]

The starting point.

This is the PC I am upgrading. It belongs to a family member and I am almost to ashamed to post the picture. Its got decent guts, but the case has been very abused.  The only good thing I can say about it, is that no one would want to steal this PC.

When you look inside the beat up case, its not to bad (After I blew out all the dust bunnies). Its an AMD FX 6300 Six core processor, 8G ram and a Gigabyte GTX 1060 video card on an ASUS Motherboard. Everything is crammed inside and not much care was taken on the cable management.  But its not a bad PC. It just needs a makeover.

Here is our new tempered glass DIYPC case. It came well packaged in a sturdy box. It was the DIYPC IllusionI-BL Model.

The case had good protection inside the box as well. Which is good as the panels are glass and I would hate to have had one show up broken.

Here is what it looks like before I start the install. It has the two tempered glass panels. One on the front and one on the left side as shown. Two USB 3.0 connectors up top, and 4x 120mm LED Fans.

Looking at the new case I see some things I liked right off the bat.  A big thumbs up for having a power supply shroud.

Here is a shot of the other side. It also has lots of space to mount SSD drives (Which will probably be a future upgrade for this PC) Also it appears to have long enough cables and nice holes for cable management.

Another nice feature is the removable dust screen on the top.

And another dust screen on the bottom.

See next page for the rest of the article.

The post 29 Dollar PC Makeover! appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.

I was goofing off on the internet a while ago and I found these sites. They allow you to play hourly for a chance to win free Dogecoin and free Bitcoin. The minimum amount you can win is small, but you still get some. If your lucky who knows maybe you will win a larger amount. I have the links bookmarked on my phone and play them when I am bored.

You first need to have a bitcoin and dogecoin address. There are quite a few different wallets out there for android, IOS or your desktop. But one of the easiest ways I found to get one when starting out is to download a mobile wallet like Jaxx. Again there are many other mobile wallets out there. I just am using jaxx as an example as it does multiple coins and I have used it myself. Once you install JAXX you can open it and chose the crypto currency wallets you want and you will now have a receive address for those coins that you can put into the links below.

Then you can go to the following sites and set yourself up to play by adding your payment address (Your Receive address). Never share your private Key! If someone has your private address they can take your bits of bitcoin!

Does it work… I have been paid a little over 600 Dogecoins so far.  (Worth a couple bucks now.) The bitcoin will take a while to payout anything as the fractions are so small and you can also gamble them. But if you hit the lucky jackpot, who knows. They also have a weekly drawing that gives the winner a large amount. The more you play the more entries in the lottery. Or you can spend your earned bitcoin on tickets. Lately the first place drawing for the bitcoin has been over 1 bitcoin. WOW, that’s like 10k. That would make my day.  Its been fun to play so far and when I am bored in the morning drinking my coffee I find myself clicking the bookmark and giving it a shot.

Here is my Jaxx app on my phone.

See the comment about referral links below. If you refer you friends you can get extra spins on the drawing for a good amount of bitcoin. I left my referral link in the links below, it would be cool if you used them when you signed up.

Here are the links if you want to try it.

Free Doge Coin
Free Bit Coin

Again they have a referral program . So you can share the link with your friends to get more entries in the drawing or something like that.  When you go to the menu on the link from the program on your phone it has your referral link. ( and again I used mine in the above links) If you want to share with your friends you would want to grab your referral link, not share my links. Then you can get the referral bonus.

If I win anything substantial I will update this and let you know. Let me know if you win anything, as I am curious.  I see they also allow you to deposit bitcoin. I have not tried that so can not say if it is safe or not. Do that at your own risk. I have only done the free spins for coins.

Good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The post How to get Free Bitcoin and Dogecoin, while drinking coffee! appeared first on MyRandomTechBlog.com.