The problem WM2496HWM dispenser not working :

Basically we had noticed that when we would do a wash cycle the detergent dispenser would not empty the detergent. I did some googling and did not find a solution for this besides maybe clogged holes for the water box above the dispenser.  I went ahead and ran a load while sitting in front of the machine with the Dispenser drawer out to see if any water came out of those holes above it and none did. It also did not appear that they were clogged when checking with a flashlight.

So at this point I decided to take the top of the washing machine off and have a look at it.

DISCLAIMER: This is not an instructional post. I am not a professional and this is just how I fixed my washing machine. Your issue may be different. If you do not know what you are doing hire a professional. I am not responsible if you injure/kill yourself or damage your property. Please follow you owners manual and all safety instructions. 

The Solution:

Ok, basically what I did was unplug the machine and follow a youtube video showing how to remove the top. It was pretty straightforward, just put the model number into youtube and search and you will see some videos on disassembly.

Once the top was off I checked the unit that feeds the water to the dispenser and could easily see it wasn’t plugged up.  It was also easy to see there was not much left that could be the issue besides the electro/mechanical valves that feed the water. So I decided to just go order both the hot and cold sets of these valves as I found a set of both for under 25 bucks online with free shipping. (Amazon)

Here is what it looks like with the top off.

First I checked the box in the lower left of the picture and did not see any clogs. Then I went ahead and just order new electromechanical water inlet valves. If I was smarter I would have checked my valves first as it appears one was plugged when I went to replace it (See below)

Parts ordered for my LG TROMM WM2496HWM washing machine.

These are the part numbers for the valves:

• Part # 5220FR2006H Hot Water Inlet valve
• Part # 5221ER1003A Cold Water Inlet valves

I am hoping I might be able to help you out as I should have checked this first. I waited until the parts showed up and then went to swap them. When I was undoing the Hot Water inlet valve to replace it I found the inside all plugged up with rubber on the inlet filter. I have a feeling that if I had just cleaned this out it might have worked fine. Another thing I should mention is I had also been seeing a random periodic error codes, but it was random and would go away. This clog may have also been causing that issue as it has not popped up again since fixing it.

Here is where the clog was, but in this picture I already picked out most of the rubber. It was really plugged before the picture. Not sure where the rubber was from but maybe a rubber washer. You can still see smaller pieces clogging it.

Installing went pretty easy. I had the washing machine unplugged and the water turned off. I removed the connector then moved one hose at a time. This was so I did not confuse them. it was a pretty easy process.

Summary:

I think I might have been able to resolve my WM2496HWM dispenser not working issue for free if I had just checked for a clog before ordering any parts. But since I had the new parts in hand I went ahead and swapped them out. Needless to say it is working fine now and I am happy I was able to get it fixed.

For reference here is the link to the LG website for the LG TROMM WM2496HWM which also has the manual https://www.lg.com/ca_en/support/support-product/lg-WM2496HWM.

If you also have a LG TROMM Dryer you may be interested in this article HERE where I fixed my LG TROMM dryer that was not drying properly.

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The issue:

The LG TROMM DLE9577WM dryer would run, but it would not dry. It would not matter which setting it was on when running.

I was able to get this issue fixed myself, but I did have to order a few parts. The hardest part was getting the dryer down as I had it stacked on top of the washing machine. When it came to the disasembly I found if you do a quick searches on youtube you can find some good video instructions on how to disassemble the dryer. Just make sure to unplug it before working on it and follow all safety precautions. I will try to come back to this post and paste a link here for disassembly. LINK

DISCLAIMER : This is not an instructional post, this is for entertainment only. Please follow all safety instructions in your manual and if you are not sure what you are doing hire a professional. I am not responsible if you try to fix your dryer and injure or kill yourself or damage your property. This is just me documenting how i fixed my dryer for my blog (Partly so I remember what to buy again next time it happens). 

 The solution for my LG DLE9577WM not drying :

The parts I tested that went bad were the Dryer High limit Thermostat, and High limit Fuse. These both needed to be replaced and I was able to verify they were bad by checking them with a multi meter. They were showing open circuits and had no continuity. Since I was already in there swapping these two parts out I went ahead and ordered a Thermistor assembly probe and a blower thermostat that is located by that blower. I replaced these as I would already have the dryer apart, so thought might as well since they were not that expensive. I was able to get all four of these parts for under 50 bucks on Amazon. Although I could have fixed it I think for 20 bucks only buying the first couple parts I know that were bad.

Parts needed :

Here are the parts that tested bad that I needed to replace to fix my DLE9577WM not drying issue :

• Part # 6931EL3003D   Dryer Thermostat Thermal Fuse
• Part # 6931EL3001E Dryer High Limit Thermostat

These I considered optional in my case, but I also ordered since I was already going to be taking the dryer apart:

• Part # 6323EL2001B Thermistor Assembly
• Part # 6931EL3002M Dryer Blower Thermostat

Here is a picture of where these parts I replaced were located.

Summary:

All in all it wasn’t a hard job for me to fix my DLE9577WM not drying issue. I did get help to remove the dryer from the top of the washing machine so it was a two person job. Thanks to my wife for helping me lift it down. The replacement procedure was pretty much disconnect and unscrew the old parts then screw in the new parts and hook the connectors back up.(after unplugging the dryer and taking it apart first. ) The disassembly and assembly was the longest part.

I did have one mishap. I did not mark things very well and put it back by memory and forgot to connect the connector for the door latch (Door shut sensor) This will cause your dryer not to work at all. Luckily it only required that I remove a couple panels to get my hand in to be able to connect that back up.

Here is the LG product support website for the LG TROMM DLE9577WM  in case you need the original owners manual.

You may also be interested in this article I posted earlier about some cheap LED light strips you can use for in room lighting  LINK .

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The Miwat LED floodlight size I am reviewing is the 100W model. These are ultra thin LED floodlights that are IP68 rated. I decided to mount mine outside as 100 Watts is a LOT of light output.

Disclaimer: This product was sent to me for free to review. But I did not let that influence my opinion. Also this post is for entertainment purposes only. I am not responsible if you injure yourself or damage your property if you try to install a light yourself. Please hire a professional if you do not know what you are doing. 

Miwat LED Floodlight packaging.

Here is what the packaging looks like. Its shows the dimensions and light color. As you can see in the pictures at the bottom, I thought it was a nice blend of being a natural light and not to white.

Here it is the Miwat LED Floodlight after I unboxed it.  As you can see the 100W model has a LOT of LEDs! Another thing is the one i was sent did not have a plug on the wires and was made to be direct wired. I see them selling them with plugs now as well and for me that would have been a little easier for me to test.

Here is a nice closeup of the front. You can see it has 12 rows of 9 LEDs for a total of 108 LEDs.

Here is a closeup of the back of the light. You can see it has some heatsink type of fins for cooling. You can also see the bracket on the back for mounting. It has the side screws to adjust the bracket and it seemed pretty sturdy.

Testing the light

Now how bright is it. I turned it on in the house and it was crazy bright. Way to bright for me to really use it for anything inside without blinding us. But I guess that’s what a flood light is for (Outside). So I put it outside on our second story deck and aimed it at the ground.  Here you can see it from above temporarily mounted on the deck.

The angle of lighting was also really good. The box said 120 degrees and I would agree with that. Here you can see the side lighting was still very good.

Its really hard to show how bright this thing is in the pictures. But i want to say it is really bright. I would hesitate to get a 100W like this if I had a neighbor directly on the side of my house as it would probably really irritate them when it came on. But for me this is perfect.

Warranty

The Packaging also contained a card that mentioned a 1 Year warranty and 24 hour / 365 day customer support which is really nice. Mine worked right out of the box with no issues so i did not need to contact them.

Summary

I really like the brightness and form factor of this light. I will be adding more lighting now and do my whole backyard. It was amazing to see how much it lit things up at night and will be really useful for when our dogs are in the back, or when it just gets dark early in the winter.  I give this light a big two thumbs up. The only negative I see is that I would have prefered to have a long cord and plug already installed on it, and I see they are selling them that way as well now.

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The issue with my Fridigdaire LFFH20F3QWA:

This happened a couple months ago, but I saw these pictures on my phone when I was looking for something else, so thought I would make a quick post in case someone else has this issue. This is a standup freezer model # LFFH20F3QWA which I purchased at Lowes. The freezer did have power and the lights came on. The first thing I did was transfer everything out of the bad freezer and into my other working freezer.  Luckily I had enough room. Then I checked the internet and figured it was the thermostat or the defrost timer. The thermostat was going to take a week to get to me, and cost more, and the defrost timer was cheaper and would be delivered faster. But I took the shotgun approach and went ahead and ordered both as I figured if I started with the defrost timer it would end up being the thermostat.  (Spoiler alert – It was the defrost timer.)

Disclaimer: I am not responsible if you try to fix your freezer yourself. If you are unsure how to do it you should call a professional.  You may injure yourself or damage your freezer if you do not know what you are doing. This is not an instructional post on how to do it safely. This post is for entertainment only. 

That being said, I was able to just go to youtube and find a video that showed me how to do it. Even how to test the thermostat which I should have done before ordering it.

The symptoms were it was no longer cooling. When I took apart the back freezer panel inside  (After unplugging it of course.) I found the coils were frozen. Here is a pic when it was still partly frozen.

Here it had defrosted as I was waiting for the parts to show up.

Here is the defrost timer I ordered off Amazon : Frigidaire 297318010 Defrost Timer , The defrost timer is located in the back of the freezer on the bottom as seen below.

I found lots of places to buy the parts online, but Amazon was one of the cheapest for the Defrost timer plus it had free fast shipping. I ordered the thermostat kit on Ebay as Amazon did not have it in stock at the time or was to expensive. I paid $25 dollars for the thermistor kit on ebay. It was the whole kit pictured below. Here is the Thermostat kit I ordered for reference. Electrolux 5304496284 Heater,Defrost,w/Thermostat. It was still in the unopened bag sitting in my closet. 

SUMMARY:

In hindsight I should have taken the time to test the thermostat first.  Its easy to do, just take it off the freezer and use a multi-meter to test it when it is warm and you should have an open. Then put the end in ice water (not the leads :-))and you should have continuity once it gets cold.  The temperature allows the circuit to open or close. By not testing this first it cost me $35 to fix the freezer rather then $10. But I am sure that is below what I would have paid to have someone come out and fix it for me. I also now have a thermistor and heater in case it goes bad in the future. As for my freezer model # LFFH20F3QWA I am not sure if the last few digits represent the state it was purchased in? I did purchase it in WA .

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I woke up to the surprise of a cold shower the other day due to my gas water heater that had an issue. It is an American Water heater Company Model FG6150T403NO. I was able to fix it, but wanted to post something with my model number as I didn’t see much on the internet about it. I also wanted to save someone from possibly buying the wrong part.  After looking into the issue I figured it was a bad thermocouple. The pilot light would not stay lit. This can be a common failure on gas water heaters. I was about to buy a new one online and lucked out before purchasing, and found out that I have “Left Hand Threads” on my thermocouple. The part I was going to order had normal right hand threads and would not have worked. I looked all over to find a left hand threaded thermocouple without much luck. (I wanted it ASAP as I did not want to have cold showers for a week). Luckily I found a “kit” at our local Lowes home improvement store. It cost me $35 dollars and was money well spent. I was able to get it installed by following the directions that came with it.  If your searching the net, search for “American Water Heater Company Water Heater Tune-Up Kit” and that should get you pointed in the right direction.

Your issue may not be the same as mine, so no guarantee this would fix your problem. This is just how I fixed mine. I am not a professional plumber or water heater expert. I am not advising anyone to fix theirs themselves as it can be dangerous if you do not know what you are doing. You can always just call up a professional and have them come diagnose and fix the issue. Knowing how much the part costs locally might give you a little extra bargaining power when they give you a price quote. This is just to give you an idea of what the issue might be.

Here is the old assembly. Basically with the new assembly I had to re-use a few things like the burner, but most of this in the picture below got replaced. I thought the installation instructions in the kit were good.

Once I pulled out the assembly, I had to vacuum out the inside with the shop vac.

With the new one installed I was never so happy to see the flame. ( With the old unit I could just barely see through the window it was so dirty.) My old door cover had a round window, this new one has a square window. Hot Showers again!

This is my label with my part number

And what it looks like now with the cover off….

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